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Drawing from worthy native varieties and the choice of the international array, Friulians have applied studied vineyard techniques and avant-garde enology to the production of highly distinctive whites, as well as some attractive reds.
Friuli has two DOC zones of exceptional status in Collio Goriziano, or simply Collio, and Colli Orientali del Friuli, adjacent areas that follow the border of Slovenia from Gorizia northwest to Tarcento. The exchange of air currents between the Alps and the Adriatic has created a highly favourable habitat for vines on the terraced slopes called ronchi. Carso is a unique zone in the hills above the seaport and regional capital of Trieste.
Friuli has built a growing reputation in Italy and abroad for white wines made by relatively small wineries and estates. The whites had long been dominated by Tocai Friulano, a fine variety which seems to be a native of Friuli with no parental links to other wines known as Tokay or Tokaji. The local Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla and Verduzzo also can be intriguing, as can such long-established foreign varieties as Traminer and Riesling, the highly admired Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco and the ever popular Pinot Grigio.
The Friulian style in whites favours the exquisitely fresh and fruity, with delicate fragrance and flavour that express clear varietal character. Many producers consider their whites to be too pure and linear to benefit from wood aging. The style has been on target for the national market, which seems to favour the flavours and names of pure varietals. But there are a growing number of exceptions to the rule, in white wines that gain depth and complexity from blending, oak aging and other artistic touches.
Friulian reds were traditionally light and fruity, best to drink within two to five years of the harvest. That style applied to the predominant Merlot and Cabernet Franc, as well as to Pinot Nero and the worthy native variety of Refosco. But certain winemakers have heightened structure and nuance by blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other varieties and aging the wine in small oak barrels.
Friulians have shown an encouraging tendency to revive varieties that had been neglected. Foremost among the legends is Picolit, a white that ranked as one of Europe's finest sweet wines around 1800, when it was favoured by the Hapsburgs and other royal families. Despite low yields, Picolit has been coming back. So has Verduzzo, which makes exquisitely light dessert wines in the Colli Orientali. Ribolla Gialla, a native of Collio, has benefited from new methods that make it into a dry white of character.
Among the reds are Refosco, which can be made either light and fruity or into a durable wine for aging. Though rare and odd, Franconia and Tazzelenghe make distinctive reds, but perhaps the Schioppettino grape has the most intriguing potential.
Sparkling wines represent a growing field, as winemakers bring not only choice Pinot and Chardonnay grapes into their cuvees but also Ribolla for fine spumante by the classical and charmat methods.
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