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A high percentage of Piedmont's wines is classified, and most of them derive from native vines. Besides the noble Nebbiolo - source of Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara and Ghemme, which are all DOCG - Barbera ranks as the most popular vine for reds, followed by Dolcetto, which is enjoyed for its mellow, round flavours. Brachetto makes fragrant bubbly red that is DOCG as Brachetto d'Acqui. Freisa and Grignolino lead a host of local varieties in rounding out the honour roll of reds.
Though it ranks only seventh among the regions in total production, Piedmont is considered a giant of Italian wine in every other way.
Piedmont has the most DOC-DOCG zones with 47 (including the comprehensive Piedmont DOC), as well as the most wineyards dedicated to classified production. For craftsmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their historical habitats, the Piedmonts have no rivals in Italy.
The climate is rigid by Italian standards, with distinct changes of season. Winters are cold with plenty of snow. Summers are for the most part hot and dry. Spring and fall are temperate to cool with fog normal at harvest time.
A majority of the region's vineyards are located in the Langhe and Monferrato hills, which are connected to the Apennines in the southeast. The focal point of premium production is the town of Alba on the Tanaro River. In the nearby Langhe hills, Barolo ("king of wines and wine of kings") is produced at the rate of about 7 million bottles a year and Barbaresco, which many experts rate its equal, rarely reaches 2.5 million bottles. Both come from Nebbiolo, which gives them the powerful structure that makes them capable of improving for many years.
The traditional Barolo and Barbaresco were admired almost as cult wines, though often criticized as too elaborate for modern palates. But the combination of favourable vintages and perfection of techniques among winemakers, many of them young, seems to be changing the old-fashioned image. Barolo and Barbaresco have retained their ample dimensions while becoming better balanced and more approachable than before.
The Alba area is renowned for its smooth, supple Dolcetto under several appellations, and for first-rate Nebbiolo and white Arneis from the Roero hills. But the most dramatic progress in the Alba and Asti areas has come with the ubiquitous Barbera, which after ages of being considered rather common has rapidly taken on aristocratic airs.
Certain aged Barberas from have emerged to stand comparison with fine Nebbiolo reds. Piedmonts drink more red wine than white, and about half of the red is Barbera, which can also be attractive in youthfully fruity and bubbly versions. Three other red wines that have recovered after decades of decline are the crimson Grignolino, the often fizzy Freisa and the buoyantly sweet and bubbly Brachetto from Acqui, where it rates a DOCG.
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